Herbal Apricot Bars

A fork full of herbal apricot

When we got back from our trip a few weeks ago, I was quick to head to one of my favorite produce stores and pick up some colorful, ripe treats. Amid the array of crunchy, fresh options at the market, the vibrant orange apricots persuasively magnetized me.  Before I knew it, they were displayed in my fruit bowl alongside an accompaniment of other fresh fare.

Powdered sugar over the batter

But then something funny happened: July whizzed by in a blink.  We’re always reminded of the slowness and ease of summertime, but in reality, it often feels just as full and lively as any season to me.  My apricots got riper and riper over the days of July.  They became more orange, increasingly fragrant, and quite soft.  That’s when I decided to transform them into a tangy, herbal, sweet treat.

Herbal Apricot Bars (serves 9-16, depending on size of slices)

  • 1.5 cups flour
  • 2 tablespoons brown sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon finely minced fresh rosemary
  • 1/2 cup cold unsalted butter
  • 1-2 tablespoons cold water as needed
  • 1 pound very ripe apricots
  • 8 ounces cream cheese at room temperature
  • 2 egg yolks
  • 2/3 cup powdered sugar*

Preheat oven to 350 F.  Lightly grease a 9 x 9″ pan, preferably glass.  Sift the flour, brown sugar and salt into a bowl. Whisk in the rosemary evenly. Cut the butter into it, working it into the dough just until the consistency is even and dough holds together. It’s OK if it’s a little dry, but if it really doesn’t hold, add up to 2 tablespoons cold water gradually, being careful not to overmix it. Firmly push dough into the bottom and a little up the sides of the pan, then prick all over with a fork.  Bake for 15 minutes, then let sit at room temperature for 5 minutes.

Apricot topping over the crust

Meanwhile, rinse, dry, and pit the apricots.  Puree them in a food processor with cream cheese and egg yolks until smooth.  Sift the powdered sugar over the mixture and puree again until no traces of sugar are seen. Pour over crust. Bake for about 45 minutes, until top has a few brown spots and edges are light brown, and the center seems set.  Surface will bubble and puff while baking; this is fine. Remove from oven, being careful to keep pan flat, and let cool completely (about 3 hours) before slicing, garnishing, and serving.  Keep chilled; eat within 2 days.

With their intensely tangy apricot and cream cheese flavor, these bars are great for true apricot lovers who are open to a hint of fragrant rosemary.  Not too sweet, yet full of rich flavor, they are delicious at room temperature or, better yet, chilled.  They are great served with a generous dusting of powdered sugar and even a spring of fresh rosemary.

Rosemary sprig topped bar

Maybe next time…  *Feel free to adjust the amount of sugar according to the sweetness of your apricots, keeping in mind that they become tart-er as they cook.  A bit of cornmeal in place of some flour would be an excellent addition to the crust of these bars; try replacing 1 or 2 tablespoons.  A decadent dollop of fresh whipped cream is a wonderful topping on each and every slice, offering a creamy and neutral flavor to an otherwise powerful palate.  The cream, or even a drizzle of custard or icing, could also make the bars a little bit prettier — always a welcome dessert feature!

A bitten bar

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Sweet Inspiration: Three Chicago Bakeries

Sweet Mandy B's Bakery, ChicagoThe week before last, my husband and I visited Chicago for the first time. We found it to be an incredible city: there’s art everywhere, it’s easy to get around, and–ohhh–the amazing bakeries!  I visited just three and fell equally in love with each one, walking away with a belly full of delicious sweets and a heart overflowing with baking inspiration. Here they are, listed not in rank of favorites or importance, but simply the order I happened to visit them:

1.) Sweet Mandy B’s is one of the most adorable places I’ve ever been.  From the moment I walked under the stained glass cupcake that sits above Pastry case at Sweet Mandy B'sthe front door, I wanted to giggle with joy.  Pastel colors everywhere, the word “YUM” plastered to the wall, and a pastry case full of vibrantly decorated goodies — who wouldn’t love it here?  Gazing at the array of frosted cookies, cupcakes, brownies and more, it took me a while to choose, but finally I decided on a lemon cupcake with raspberry filling, which I ate in no hurry while sitting on the padded lavender bench and looking out the large front windows at the lovely Sheffield Lemon cupckae at Mandy'sGardens neighborhood. “Perhaps cupcakes should always be served at room temperature,” I thought as my mouth filled with almost-warm frosting and moist cake.  And when I finished it and ordered a giant peanut butter rice crispy treat to take to my husband, I realized what my next trial recipe with sunflower seed butter could be. Thank you, thank you, Sweet Mandy B!

2.) Floriole, just footsteps from Sweet Mandy B’s, has a classy but casual feel; it seems like the perfect place to meet a friend for lunch or, better yet, afternoon Floriole pastry casecoffee and cake.  Its counters reveal gorgeous gourmet offerings including clafoutis, crossiants, and even the venerable kouign aman (whose local version I am rather addicted to and have written about before). They also offer an extensive menu of savory meals, and the lively lunch crowd was certainly enjoying it when I visited (and everything looked incredibly delicious!).

But Floriole is apparently best known best for their canelés, which is what I ordered.  Tender and flecked with vanilla beans and hints of rum, the caramelized pastry was as delicious as it was beautiful. “This is a special occasion pastry,” I thought as I bit through its creamy center, noticing the precision and practice that must have gone into its creation.  But then I realized what my declaration Caneles at Florioleimplied: that this very moment was a special occasion. I looked around at all the people engaged in face-to-face conversation, feeding each other from one another’s plates, laughing and catching up.  I was reminded of the futility of waiting for some perfect moment to enjoy the things and people we love.  Any moment can be a special occasion.  And in that spirit, I decided I’d even make my own canelés soon.

3.) Bang Bang Pie Shop is a magical place in Chicago’s Logan Square neighborhood.  There’s a remarkably inviting, sweet and simple feel at this bakery. The Bang Bang Pie Shopmenu is short, the kitchen is small, and the setting feels like home in all the right ways. The day my husband and I visited, we got to meet one of the kind owners, Dave, and to see his wife (the co-owner) Megan, baking the pies.  I learned that nearly everything there is made from scratch by one of the two of them, for instance: the graham crackers for the pie crusts, the butter, and even the coffee beans are roasted by Dave himself.

There were three pies to choose from that day: chocolate cream, blueberry, and a chilled summer pie. (I skipped the chocolate, but if it’s anything like the other two, it’s terrific.)  We sat at the picnic tables on the lawn next to a big, beautiful tree and tasted our slices of heaven. The blueberry pie was piled high with sweet, juicy, indigo berries and whipped cream on a rich, flaky crust.  The summer pie made my world stop: a crisp Summer pie at Bang Bangbut chewy graham cracker crust, creamy ice cream speckled with bits of fresh sage, and a thick layer of cool lemon curd — all topped with fresh berries.  It was one of the best desserts I had ever tasted. I’ve long loved lemon and berries, but I’d been skeptical about sage despite its recent popularity in sweets. Watch out: now I’m ready to bake with sage and make my own graham crackers, thanks to Bang Bang.

Food-wise and otherwise, Chicago is a city I feel I could never exhaust and would never want to. It’s the kind of place where, just when you think you’re simply taking a morning stroll, you turn the corner and find yet another vibrant indulgence by surprise, whether scrumptious for the mouth or the soul (we happened upon a farmers market, children playing in a fountain, live music and more).  Imagining its winter is the only deterrent.

Only crumbs left
Maybe next time… I’m determined to return to Chicago for more adventures and inspiration.  I missed out on several bakeries I’d still like to try, not to mention the endless activities and places to see.  Until then, I’ll remain grateful for all the baking inspiration I came home with from this first visit, and I will surely share my Chicago-inspired recipes and kitchen quests here — albeit daydreaming of all those scrumptious Chicago eats.    With thanks to my dear friend, M, whose invaluable Chicago list made this post possible.

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A Blank Canvas: Fantastic White Cake

My favorite baby in town is turning one this month, and I will have the honor of making his first birthday cake. Knowing how much I enjoy experimenting with desserts, his dear parents asked if I’d be up for trying a naturally dyed, mutlicolored layer cake. I was quick both to say yes and to get in the kitchen and practice.

One thing I knew for sure: I’d use my favorite white cake recipe as the base. Over time, I’ve modified it into a lime cake with mango filling, an egg nog cake, a lemon cake, and much more. It’s also a fantastic white cake on its own or with any variety of frostings or fillings. Here is the recipe, which is easy to double if you need more than two thin 8″ round layers.

Blank Canvas White Cake (makes a small two layer 8″ cake; serves about 8)

  • 3/4 cup unsalted butter at soft room temperature
  • 1.25 cups granulated sugar, divided
  • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
  • 1.5 cups plus 3 tablespoons all purpose flour
  • 2 teaspoons baking powder
  • 3/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 cup plus 3 tablespoons milk
  • 4 egg whites

Preheat oven to 350 F. Grease and flour two 8″ cake pans, or grease and line them with parchment.

In a large bowl, beat the butter, 1 cup of the sugar and the vanilla until light and fluffy.  Sift the flour, salt and baking powder over bowl and begin to mix until batter is coming together; it will be thick. Gradually add the milk, continuing to mix until fully incorporated. (If you are adding citrus zest, vanilla bean, or other additions, do so at this point.)

In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites on high until frothy, then add the remaining 1/4 cup sugar. Keep beating until whites are opaque and stiff. Using about 1/3 of the egg whites, gently fold the whites into the batter. Repeat with remaining two thirds, in two stages, folding delicately in order to not deflate the whites. Stop folding when egg whites are just fully combined and an airy batter has formed. Without delay, spread the batter evenly into the cake pans.

Bake for about 25 minutes, or just until a wooden toothpick tests free of wet batter (a few moist crumbs are OK). Cake will be fragrant and its edges will be golden brown. Let cool completely in pans before inverting and decorating.

Despite the many resources that come up with a Google search, I haven’t yet perfected the naturally dyed rainbow cake (you can tell from the photos that my green layer simply didn’t take, for instance). However, the cake tasted great and adapted well to the modifications I made. I added vanilla bean and lemon oil to the batter, omitted the extra tablespoons of milk, split the batter into 5 equal bowls, and added a to each bowl, respectively: a tablespoon of carrot, beet, spinach and blueberry* juice, and an egg yolk for the yellow layer. (I don’t take any credit for these dye ideas; they’re all over the web.)

For the birthday party coming up, I hope to post my “final draft” here.  For now, my plan is to double this recipe and follow the same modifications I made, except to find a better green — perhaps dehydrated peas or green vitamin powder.  In the meantime, the practice version served as a delicious birthday cake for my all-time favorite grown-up: my husband.

Maybe next time… What I love most about this recipe is that, at least from my perspective, it really encourages creativity. You can replace the milk with buttermilk or a not-too-sweet juice like blueberry or grapefruit. Try exchanging the vanilla extract for almond or another kind (keep in mind that some extracts, like mint, are much more potent than others; adjust as needed). A bit of citrus oil or zest will make it tangy; some finely chopped nuts will make it hearty. This recipe makes 12-14 standard size cupcakes; check after 10 minutes in the oven and remove once toothpick tests clean.

*One tip I most appreciated from my online perusing is that the blueberry juice needs a few tiny sprinkles of baking soda mixed into it before using, or else it will look purple. 

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Tangy, Buttery Grapefruit Cake with Creamy Grapefruit Curd

Grapefruit cake 1

On a recent evening, my husband came home with a full shopping bag from Moe’s Books. (Not an unusual scenario.) At first I perked up at the thought of new reading, but then I noticed the odd shape of the bag: lumpy and rounded — not book-like at all.

“They’re grapefruits from Harvey,” he revealed in response to my puzzled face, which quickly brightened again that instant.

In place of the excitement for books, I felt gratitude for the kind generosity of our friend who shared his harvest, for local trees that bear fruit all year long, and – naturally – for the realm of dessert possibilities that these gifts had opened.

Grapefruit cake 2

And on top of all this, our neighbors had given us a basket of their chickens’ eggs. (Lucky me: they’re the best eggs I’ve had — rich and vibrant with glowing orange yolks.) Little time passed before I found myself creating a new chiffon-style cake with fluffy egg whites whipped into the batter, and a luscious batch of grapefruit curd to serve alongside it. While the cake is moist and buttery with just a simple dusting of powdered sugar, the rich curd amps up the citrus flavor as well as the decadence.

Grapefruit cake 3

Grapefruit Cake with Grapefruit Curd

You’ll need a total of three medium grapefruits for the cake and custard. Start each part of the recipe by washing, drying, and zesting the grapefruits, then juicing the amount needed and removing any seeds.

FOR THE CAKE:
[makes one 8″ round cake, or two 6″ round cake layers]

  • 2 large egg whites; set aside yolks for curd
  • ¾ cup sugar
  • 7 tablespoons softened unsalted butter (i.e., 1/2 cup minus 1 tablespoon)
  • 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
  • 1 cup all purpose flour
  • 1.5 teaspoon baking powder
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • ½ cup grapefruit juice
  • finely grated zest of one grapefruit
  • powdered sugar for serving (optional)

Preheat oven to 350 F. Prepare cake pan(s) by greasing inside and lining inner bottom(s) with parchment. Beat egg whites on high until just foamy. Add ¼ cup of the sugar and keep beating until opaque with medium-to-stiff peaks; set aside. Separately, beat butter, ½ cup sugar and vanilla in a large bowl until creamy and even.

Grapefruit cake 4

Sift over bowl: flour, baking powder and salt. Scrape sides and bottom of bowl often as you stir in the dry ingredients, gradually adding the grapefruit juice along the way. Mix until even, then fold in the zest until evenly dispersed. Finally, gently fold in the egg whites in two or three portions (not all at once), folding just until no traces of egg white remain; do not overmix.

Grapefruit cake 5

Immediately transfer batter to cake pan(s), spread evenly, and place in oven. For 6″ cake rounds, bake for about 15-20 minutes; for an 8″ round, bake about 20-25 minutes. With either size, baking is done when a toothpick inserted in the center comes out free of wet batter, and edges and top are becoming golden brown. Remove from oven, and let cake cool completely before removing from pan(s).

FOR THE GRAPEFRUIT CURD:
[makes about a cup]

  • Grated zest of two grapefruits
  • 1/3 cup sugar
  • dash of salt
  • ¼ cup grapefruit juice
  • 2 large eggs
  • 2 large egg yolks
  • 1/3 cup softened unsalted butter

Grapefruit cake 6

Whisk together everything but the butter in a heatproof bowl. Set bowl over a pot of simmering water (not touching water) and whisk constantly for about 15 minutes, until custard is thick enough to hold a deep trail when whisk is pulled through it. Remove bowl from heat; keep whisking for 2-3 minutes while bowl cools down.

Whisk in the butter in three portions (not all at once), stirring each time until it disappears and is fully incorporated. Push warm curd through a sieve into clean bowl; using the whisk or a spatula can be easiest. Be sure to gently scrape the backside of the sieve, too. Let cool to room temperature, then cover tightly and refrigerate at least 45 minutes or until ready to use (up to 3 days).

Grapefruit cake 7

Keep the cooled cakes covered at room temperature until you’re almost ready to serve the dessert — up to 24 hours. (If using 6″ layers, feel free to slather curd between them and let it ooze out the sides.) Using a sifter or sieve, dust cake with powdered sugar if desired, and drizzle slices generously with grapefruit curd.

Grapefruit cake 8

If you’re a fan of grapefruit and ever wondered how it would taste as a creamsicle, this dessert is for you. Buttery with a zesty bite, the tender cake and silky custard are rich and refreshing at once. Together, they satisfy with sweetness, creaminess, and a tangy quality that only fresh citrus can impart. With a heartfelt salute to the growing trees and giving friends that abound, may you enjoy every bite.

Grapefruit cake 8

Maybe next time… This cake would pair nicely with sweet berries or mango slices, either between its layers or right on top. You can always swap in lime, lemon, or orange for the grapefruit — just keep in mind that you’ll need more of the small fruit to make up for the large size of the grapefruits. As for the curd (such an ugly abbreviation for delicious custard!) — it can be drizzled on toast, yogurt, scones, pancakes, or just about anything.

Grapefruit cake 9

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From Market to Skillet (Cake): The Lure of Cherries

Slice of cake

On a recent visit to my local farmers market, I fell into a familiar rapture.  Enjoying the late-day sun and the soft breeze from the bay, I strolled around soaking up the lively chatter, vivid colors, and the fact that I had the evening free.  Everyone there seemed to be in a good mood somehow, and I was no exception.

Sliced cake

The man selling cherries was particularly kind.  His table was full of those square, green berry baskets; they were overflowing with a vivid, burgundy bounty.  He poured my basket into a paper bag and, smiling, added an extra handful.  At that moment I decided I’d create a new indulgence out of the cherries as soon as I got home.  Here’s what I made.

Cherry Skillet Cake (serves 8-10)

  • About 1.5 pounds fresh cherries
  • 1 cup sugar, divided into thirds
  • ½ cup + 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
  • 2 eggs, divided
  • ¼ cup buttermilk
  • 1 teaspoon almond extract
  • 3/4 cup flour
  • 2 teaspoons baking powder
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • 3 tablespoons almond meal (from skin-on almonds, not blanched almond flour)
  • 3 tablespoons corn meal
  • finely grated zest of an orange or lemon

Wash, pit, and remove stems from cherries, placing them directly into a 10” oven safe skillet (such as cast iron). Fit them tightly around the edges of the pan; they can be a little looser toward the center if you don’t have enough for a tight fit all the across the pan.  Sprinkle evenly with 1/3 cup sugar and pieces of 2 tablespoons butter placed here and there. Place over medium heat and let cook for about 5 minutes, until very bubbly, sugar and butter have disappeared, and a caramely aroma is present. Remove skillet from heat and turn off burner.

Bubbling caramelizing cherries

Preheat oven to 350 F.  Beat egg whites with an electric mixer on medium/high until frothy and white, then gradually add 1/3 cup sugar while beating. Continue beating until they’re opaque and hold soft to medium peaks.  In a separate bowl, beat ½ cup butter with egg yolks until pale and smooth, then add 1/3 cup sugar, buttermilk, and almond extract, beating until combined.

Sift the flour, baking powder and salt over the batter, and mix to incorporate. In a small bowl, quickly whisk together the almond and corn meals to remove any lumps, then add to batter and beat until evenly distributed. Fold in the citrus zest until evenly scattered.

Adding egg whites to batter

Gently fold in the egg whites, starting with just one scoop to loosen up the batter, then slowly incorporate it all, stopping just when color and texture are uniform.  (Don’t overmix.) Spread batter evenly over cherries, and transfer skillet to oven.

Bake 30-35 minutes or until a toothpick tests clean, cake slightly bounces back to the touch, and surface is golden brown. Cool at least an hour (or up to overnight) at room temperature. Invert onto plate when ready to serve; heat for a few seconds on the stovetop if it’s stubborn about loosening from the pan.

Batter over cherries

Moist, soft and light, this skillet cake makes a wonderful dessert or even breakfast.  Its flecks of corn and almond offer a remarkable texture alongside the juicy cherry topping, while the citrus zest adds a balance of tangy brightness. Indeed, with their surprising hint of homemade caramel, these tart cherries are sure to remind you of summer’s sweet abundance.  They might even lure you to an enchanted farmers market like the one where I found mine, even if imaginary.

Cake from behind

Maybe next time… The amount of sugar added to the cooking cherries helps to create a caramely topping on the finished cake, but you can reduce that portion down to as little as 2 tablespoons if your cherries are quite sweet and your priority isn’t the echo of caramel. (Don’t reduce the other amounts of sugar, in the meringue and batter.) If you don’t care for an amaretto essence, freely replace the almond extract with vanilla. To make mock buttermilk, simply whisk a squeeze of lemon into regular milk – though plain milk will also work fine in this recipe. For an extra decadent treat, serve the cake warm with a big scoop of vanilla ice cream on top. Whatever you do, enjoy!

Bitten cake

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