Pistachio Crunch Cookies

Posted on December 25, 2013 by ButterSugarFlowers

Pistachio cookies (2)If you’re like me and bake mountains of goodies as gifts for the holidays, then maybe the last thing on your mind right now is hearing about another cookie recipe.  But in my world, there is no such thing as cookieless season — and I’m quite excited to introduce my newest addition to this year’s tins of treats.  I usually make about four kinds of holiday cookies, two of which have become sought-after staples (orange cardamom and hazelnut brown sugar), along with a spicy variety featuring lots of ginger and rich molasses. The fourth and final cookie is always a new experiment.

holiday doughs 2013This season’s newbie is a crunchy, light pistachio cookie with a little burst of citrus.  It came to mind when I saw pistachio paste at a beloved nearby market and found myself licking my lips, just from the sight of it.  Almond paste is a standard in my kitchen, so the thought of a version made from its distinctive, greener cousin was simply enticing. I decided on an airy dough with a bit of tangy lemon zest, rolled it in crushed pistachios, and glazed the baked cookies with citrusy icing.  For both the palate and the eyes, the new cookies made for scrumptious selection — one that will surely be coming out of my oven again, well before next winter.  Here is the recipe.

Pistachio Crunch Cookies (makes about 40 – 45 little cookies)

  • 6 ounces pistachio paste**Pistachio cookies (5)
  • 1/3 cup butter at room temperature
  • 1 large egg
  • finely grated zest of one lemon
  • 1 teaspoon almond extract
  • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
  • 1 and 2/3 cup flour
  • 1/3 cup sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 4 ounces shelled unsalted pistachios
  • 2 drops natural green food coloring (completely optional and not necessary)

Finely chop or crush the pistachio nuts; set aside in a small to medium bowl.  Using a standard-sized (large hole) grater, grate the pistachio paste into a separate, large bowl. [The nut paste has texture similar to marzipan or Play-Doh; the name “paste” is actually kind of misleading. To grate it, take a handful (as if it were a potato you were grating) and just go back and forth over the large grater holes with gentle pressure. If the pistachio paste is stubborn or sticky, it can be easier to chill or freeze it first, which will firm it up for the grating process.]

Beat the butter, then the egg, then the extracts into the paste.  Keep beating until smooth.  Over the butter mixture, sift the flour, sugar, baking soda and salt.  Mix well, until dough is even, then fold in the zest until evenly dispersed — along with the food coloring if using.

Pistachio cookies (1)Using two teaspoons of dough per cookie (0.5 ounce each), use your hands to roll dough into balls, then roll the balls into the chopped nuts, pressing gently.  Place cookies on parchment-lined cookie sheets about 1.5″ apart from one another.  Freeze for about 20 minutes or until ready to bake (up to 2 weeks if covered tightly).  While dough chills, preheat oven to 350 F.  Bake cookies for 16-18 minutes, until their tops are golden brown and have cracked a bit.

For the glaze — which is optional but amplifies the deliciousness and beauty:

  • 1 cup powdered sugar, packed
  • 2 teaspoons almond extract
  • 3-4 tablespoons Grand Marnier, or lemon juice (from zested fruit above), or a combination of the two, or anything similar
  • 1 uncooked egg white (about 2 tablespoons – no more)

Sift the powdered sugar into a medium bowl.  Add the extract and liqueur/lemon juice a little at a time; whisk until smooth. Whisk in the egg white. Glaze will be rather thin. Once the cookies have completely cooled, drizzle the icing over each cookie using a teaspoon. It works well to do this on a cooling rack with parchment underneath, so that you can quickly scoop up and reuse the glaze from below. Let icing dry completely, then devour.

Pistachio cookies (3)

These crispy cookies are sweet with citrus and warm with the unique richness that only pistachios offer.  Each bite holds a scrumptious and satisfying crunch, followed by a burst of nutty, lemony flavor.  If you’re looking for a decadent balance of salty and sweet in a tasty and toothsome form, pistachio crunch cookies are for you.  I hope you enjoy them to every last crumb.

Maybe next time… Pistachio cookies (4)Two teaspoons of orange or grapefruit zest would be a great substitute for the lemon zest in these cookies.  If you don’t want to use uncooked egg white in the glaze, simply omit it; the icing will be thicker and will take longer to set.  If you want to try these cookies without so much crunch, stop the baking time at 12 – 14 minutes and let them cool completely on baking sheets; the centers will be chewy and the edges dry. (I preferred the longer bake because I was in the mood for a good crunch: a texture that works especially well in my cookie tins for both variety and lasting freshness.)  One can usually find pistachio paste at markets that carry specialty products from Italy, though DIYers will surely find a way to make their own.**

Pistachio cookies (6)

**As shown here, my pistachio paste was Sicilfrutti brand “Latte Di Pistacchio” — but after my local store stopped carrying it, I’m only finding it on Italy-based web sites now. The pistachio paste was very similar to Odense Almond Paste (the log that comes in a 7 ounce box), which is easy to find and would make a fine substitute. The cookies could still be covered in pistachios — the two nuts are quite complementary, and in fact pistachio paste usually has an almondy flavor.  I haven’t tried the “pistachio nut paste” in the can that I have seen sometimes in stores and online; it seems to be runnier than what I used here. Another option, depending how much DIY you are up for, is to try make your own pistachio paste — see http://bit.ly/1S77U3C.

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Introducing Cranberry Curd: Lemon Curd’s Comely Cousin

Posted on December 15, 2013 by ButterSugarFlowers

Cranberry Curd (2)When the holiday season arrived this year, beautiful cranberries began calling to me with their signature tartness and never-ending dessert potential.  Over time, I’ve added dried cranberries to dozens of recipes, and I’ve even used leftover Thanksgiving cranberry sauce to make cookies that are now family favorites.  But recently, I began to crave cranberries in a creamy form — one I could incorporate into an array of desserts.  Then it hit me: cranberry curd was sure to make a splendid embodiment of the tart, tempting berry.

“Curd” is quite an ugly abbreviation for “custard” — but since it denotes a specific type of custard and is well known for its luscious lemon variety, I’ve adopted it into both my vocabulary and my baking repertoire.  I think of curd as, essentially, an indulgent and versatile dessert condiment.  And as a condiment, fabulous flavor is of utmost importance — so I settled on my third and most cranberry-packed creation of this recipe.  Its tartness and vibrant hue are an unmistakable capture of the berries within, and its creaminess offers a perfect balance that will make you want to spread it on nearly everything.

Cranberry Curd (3)Cranberry Curd (makes about 2.5 cups)

  • 2 cups 100% cranberry juice (not from concentrate; no sugar added)
  • 1 cup (about 3.75 ounces) fresh or frozen whole cranberries, minced or crushed
  • 4 large eggs
  • 4 large egg yolks
  • 3/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
  • 3/4 cup powdered sugar, packed (do not substitute granulated sugar*)
  • 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter at room temperature

Cranberry Curd (4)In a small saucepan, bring the cranberry juice to a steady simmer.  Let simmer for 20-30 minutes, until juice has reduced by half, to make 1 cup.  Remove from heat; let cool to room temperature.

Fill a medium-sized saucepan about halfway with water; bring to a simmer over medium heat.  In a large heatproof bowl (one that fits over the top of the saucepan without its bottom touching the water), whisk together the eggs, yolks, salt and vanilla until smooth.  Sift the powdered sugar over it and whisk well. Don’t worry if there are lumps of sugar — they will disappear as you whisk and heat the custard.  Fold in the minced berries and the 1 cup cooled, reduced juice.  Stir until incorporated.

Cranberry Curd (1)Set the bowl over the pot of simmering water, and whisk constantly, letting sliced cranberries smash. Custard will become frothy as it thickens. Continue cooking and whisking until it holds a trail when whisk is dragged through it — about 15-18 minutes. (Use caution throughout this process: hot water may spatter up from pan, and lifting the bowl will let scalding steam escape.) Turn off heat, remove bowl from saucepan, and let custard sit for 1-2 minutes, giving it a few occasional stirs as it just begins to cool.  Add half the butter, whisking it until it has disappeared. Repeat with second half.

Set a medium-mesh sieve over a heatproof container, and carefully use a spatula to push the warm custard through.** Cover the surface of the custard with wax paper or plastic wrap, and let cool to lukewarm or room temperature. Add a tight-fitting lid and refrigerate several hours, until thoroughly chilled. Use within a week, keeping it chilled anytime it’s not being served.

Cranberry curd offers refreshing tartness in a lusciously indulgent form. Its versatility is a welcome bonus to its already wondrous existence. Easy to make and delightful to eat, it can be a cookie dip, a spread for scones, or a scrumptious slather between cake layers.  Try it as the center for thumbprints; or whip, pipe and bake its leftover egg whites into miniature meringue shells to encase it.  Layer it in a trifle or drizzle it over ice cream; spread it on bread, pancakes or waffles. You might even serve it in place of cranberry sauce at a holiday dinner table. Whatever you do, get ready for a burst of cranberry deliciousness in a vibrant and velvety form.

Cranberry Curd (7)*Maybe next time…  Because I chose to make a recipe that’s heavy on the juice (and therefore rich with cranberry flavor), this curd is not too sweet and not super-thick, and it relies on the cornstarch in its powdered sugar for some of its consistency. If you prefer a thicker or slightly sweeter version, you might increase the powdered sugar from 3/4 cup to a full cup, or use 3/4 cup of the reduced cranberry juice instead of a full cup.  Cranberry pairs wondrously with orange, so I suggest serving this with almost anything that contains orange zest.  This custard also makes a unique and beautiful gift when placed in glass jars. (Just be sure to tell recipients to keep it refrigerated and eat it within a week; or follow proper preserving methods for safe canning.)

Cranberry Curd (5)**Straining the curd makes for a traditional custardy texture and ensures that any little lumps are removed. Having said that, there’s no reason you can’t eat those mashed, custard-soaked cranberries by the spoonful, or spread them on toast like marmalade!

Cranberry Curd (10)

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Egg Nog Cream Pie with Gingersnap Crust

Posted on November 29, 2013 by ButterSugarFlowers

Egg Nog Pie (11)Oooh, egg nog.  I’m ever smitten by its festive flavor and creamy decadence.  I wait all year for it to come back to me in the form of frozen yogurt, steaming lattes, and even cake.  I love the way it matches perfectly with my favorite spice — magical nutmeg — and how it reminds me of the occasional milkshakes I sometimes sipped in my younger days.

Egg Nog Pie (12)But when the holidays come, I rarely indulge in egg nog. The fact is, it’s just too dangerous. Efforts at self-discipline notwithstanding, I tend to guzzle my drinks instead of sipping them, and after a drop too many of egg nog, I feel stuffed and sorry.  But if the nog comes in the form of dessert — one that can’t disappear with the tilt of a glass — I tend to slow down, to savor it. And with all its sweet richness, egg nog simply seems at home in a format that can be sliced, bitten, and washed down with hot coffee. For my latest creation, I transformed it into a pudding-y custard, slathered it with spiced whipped cream, and paired it with an almond-flecked gingersnap crust. Here’s the recipe:

Egg Nog Cream Pie with Gingersnap Crust (makes a 9” pie; serves 10)

For the crust:Egg Nog Pie (1)

  • 8 ounces (1/2 lb.) crunchy gingersnap cookies
  • 1 ounce unsalted almonds (about ¼ cup)
  • 1/3 cup butter, melted – plus a bit more for pan

Preheat oven to 350 F. Lightly grease the inside of a 9” pie pan, preferably glass. Place gingersnaps in a plastic bag; whack with a rolling pin or spoon to break up the cookies. Place nuts and broken cookies in the bowl of food processor; turn on, gradually adding 1/3 cup melted butter. Pulse until moist, evenly- sized crumbs have formed. (If not using a food processor, chop or crush the cookies and nuts; mix in the melted butter.) Press mixture evenly and very firmly into pie pan, holding it up to light to avoid thin spots, especially in the center. Bake for about 15 minutes, until toasty and fragrant. While crust is still hot, use the back of the spoon to gently press it down, especially any bulges. Let crust cool completely before filling; place in fridge to hasten cooling if desired. (Once cool, feel free cover and store crust up to 24 hours before filling.)

For the filling and topping:Egg Nog Pie (8)

  • 4 egg yolks
  • 3 tablespoons sugar, divided
  • 2-3 tablespoons spiced rum*
  • 2 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons corn starch
  • 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 3/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg, divided
  • 2 and 1/4 cup egg nog**
  • 1/2 pint (1 cup) heavy whipping cream, chilled
  • fresh or frozen whole cranberries for decorating (optional)
  • fresh peppermint leaves for decorating (optional)

In a large heatproof bowl, whisk together the yolks, 2 tablespoons sugar and rum until smooth. Sift the corn starch, flour, salt, and ½ teaspoon nutmeg over the yolk mixture. Mix well; set aside.  In a medium saucepan, heat egg nog over low/medium heat, whisking constantly. Egg nog will come to a simmer and then froth up; at this point, turn off heat and keep Egg Nog Pie (4)whisking for a few more seconds. Let egg nog sit in pan for 30 seconds; meanwhile, give the yolk mixture another stir. Working rapidly, pour about a third of the hot egg nog into the yolk mixture, whisking vigorously. Add remaining egg nog to bowl and mix continually for 30 seconds to a minute. Place a sieve over the saucepan and quickly pour mixture back into pan through sieve. Remove sieve, turn heat to low/medium, and whisk constantly while mixture thickens, 2-3 minutes. Just when the texture is becoming pasty, pudding-like, and begins to bubble, transfer it to pie crust and spread evenly to edges. Chill.

When the pie filling has cooled completely, beat whipping cream on high speed with 1 tablespoon sugar and ¼ teaspoon nutmeg, until voluminous and firm. Spread evenly over the cooled pie. If desired, decorate with fresh cranberries and peppermint leaves. Keep refrigerated and covered, serving chilled, and eating within 24 hours.

Egg Nog Pie (9)Custardy and crisp at once, egg nog cream pie is a successful celebration of the beverage behind it. Its spicy gingersnap crust is rich with butter and bits of almonds, and is balanced by the creamy coolness of every bite.  Easy to make and scrumptious to eat, this dessert has thrilled both lovers and loathers of drinking egg nog.  The nutmeg throughout is a natural match, giving the dessert even more of a holiday flavor than the main ingredient already offered. And the more holiday flavor, the better — ’tis the season!

Egg Nog Pie (15) *Maybe next time… Dark rum or brandy are classic stand-ins for the spiced rum, or if you prefer not to use booze at all, substitute half vanilla extract and half milk or water. For a delicious DIY version of this pie, use homemade gingersnaps and freshly ground nutmeg. While the whipped cream pairs nicely with the egg nog custard, you could make a lighter, sweeter topping by using the egg whites (from the yolks) to make meringue, like this one. Finally, in the crust, pecans, macadamias or other favorite nuts can deliciously replace the almonds, or the nuts can be skipped all together and replaced with more gingersnaps.

**A note on egg nog: For my pies, I used Clover Organic egg nog, which contains a bit of organic thickening agent (i.e., tapioca starch); I suggest taking a similar route, since egg nogs without any added thickener may produce a pie that does not set, while those with many artificial thickeners could produce a rubbery pie.

Egg Nog Pie (10)

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Fruit-filled Almond Cookies with Fresh Grapes, Cranberries or Blueberries

Posted on November 16, 2013 by ButterSugarFlowers

Fruit filled almond cookies (6)This recipe started with a meditation on a grape. I’d been enjoying sweet, crisp grapes in the height of their season, and wondered what I could do to celebrate them in the form of dessert. After all, good grapes deserve so much better than the icky purple gum, candy and soda that often represent them. This well-known flavoring, of course, is supposed to taste something like wondrous Concord grapes with their distinctive tang and sweetness. But no matter what, it always tastes like a bad imitation to me.  Fresh, real Concord grapes are truly different and wonderful — but this time, I decided to honor the more common red table grape by making it the center of a new cookie recipe.

Fruit filled almond cookies (4)I chose small, firm grapes and wrapped each one in almond paste (marzipan’s less-sugary cousin).  Then I enveloped them in speckled almond dough and drizzled them all with a bit of wine-spiked icing. The result was downright delicious: a crisp, nutty homage to the burst of fruit at the core of every bite. But then I thought, why stop with one fruit?  Tart whole cranberries would offer a wintery alternative to the grapes — one whose rush of sourness would balance the sweetness of the cookie.  And alongside these, a fresh blueberry variety would offer another vibrant yet delicate center to the otherwise almondy treats. Take your pick or make all three! Here’s the recipe.

Fruit-filled Almond Cookies: Grape, Cranberry or Blueberry (makes about 24)

For the cookies:Fruit filled almond cookies (1)

  • 24 fresh whole cranberries, small seedless organic grapes, or fresh blueberries — firm but ripe, stems removed
  • 7 ounces almond paste, such as Odense
  • 1/3 cup sugar
  • 1/3 cup butter, softened to room temperature; plus 2 teaspoons melted butter
  • 1 egg
  • 1/2 teaspoon almond or vanilla extract
  • 1.5 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1/2 cup almond meal (preferably skin on — not blanched)
  • 1 and 1/4 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt

For the icing (optional):

  • 1 cup powdered sugar
  • 2 tablespoons wine; or cranberry, blueberry or lemon juice

Rinse and dry fruit. Measure out a rough teaspoon of almond paste, flatten it into a disc with your fingers, and wrap a piece of fruit with it. Continue until all fruit is individually enclosed in almond paste. (This is a sticky process; you’ll have to stop to rinse your hands often. And you may have a little extra almond paste when done). Set wrapped fruit aside.

Fruit filled almond cookies (14)In a large bowl, beat the sugar with the 1/3 cup softened butter until smooth and pale. Add the egg and beat it in completely, then do the same with the extract. Sift over the bowl: flour, almond meal, baking powder and salt. (Here, sifting is meant to remove the clumps, not to omit the little flecks of almond skin; include any non-clumpy speckles of almond in your dough that are left behind in your sifter/sieve.)  Mix until dough sticks together, adding melted butter along the way. Just when it has a consistent texture, measure out rough tablespoons of dough. Flatten each tablespoon of dough slightly, then enclose an almond-paste-wrapped piece of fruit in it. Roll in hands to make a round ball. Repeat until all fruit is enclosed in dough. Freeze raw cookies for 15-20 minutes.

Fruit filled almond cookies (13)While the raw cookies chill, preheat oven to 350 F and line cookie sheets with parchment paper. To make the icing, place powdered sugar in a bowl and add your liquid of choice one tablespoon at a time, whisking well. Cover tightly until ready to use.  Bake the chilled cookies on prepared baking sheets for about 25 minutes, until becoming golden brown. Transfer to wire racks.  Once cookies have completely cooled, drizzle the icing across them using a pastry bag, fork or plastic baggie with a small corner cut off.  Let icing fully dry before serving.  Store covered in a cool area or fridge; eat within 3 days.

Fruit filled almond cookies (10)Nutty and buttery with sweet amaretto flavor, these indulgent cookies offer a crisp shell with a sweet, soft core.  Visible speckles of almond foreshadow the rich paste within, celebrating and surrounding the bit of fruit at each treat’s center.  The grape version is juicy and mild; the blueberry is dark yet delicate; and the cranberry is scrumptiously sour and seasonal at once. Like the grapes that inspired this recipe, these cookies might seem like nothing special — but they are genuinely worthy of festivity and even favoritism.  I admit, they have now won this rank under my roof.

Fruit filled almond cookies (8)Maybe next time…  This recipe’s easy-to-work-with dough makes it as versatile as it is delicious. Of course, options for alternative centers are practically never-ending: most fresh fruits that are not too oozy should work well. I once made a related version filled with hunks of candied ginger, and I trust that other dried fruit would also be divine. A heap of finely grated lemon or orange zest in the dough will surely complement the filling. (Perhaps lemon-blueberry or cranberry-orange? I’m definitely making one of these next time!).  In place of icing, drizzled melted chocolate could be used for extra richness — though these flavorful treats don’t necessitate either.

Fruit filled almond cookies (15)Fruit filled almond cookies (5)Fruit filled almond cookies (12)

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Orange and Black (Olive) Cake: A Dark Chocolate Delight

Posted on October 29, 2013 by ButterSugarFlowers

Orange & Black Olive Chocolate Cake (15)Like many kids, I was known to stick black olives on my fingertips at holiday gatherings, joyously waving my hands until I popped them into my mouth one by one.  I loved the way the olives transformed my hands into a cartoon character’s, and the way their juicy, salty burst of flavor sang of a special occasion.  Decades later, after growing to enjoy a rainbow of olives — stuffed and cured in a variety of ways — I still find myself warmed by the sweet subtexts that plain old black olives bring.

Orange & Black Olive Chocolate Cake (1)But when I recently ended up with a can of chopped black olives, I admit I took one bite and was reminded of how plain they taste compared to the colorful olives of adulthood. Sure, they are moist and salty–but not too flavorful otherwise. Don’t get me wrong, though: this realization was an exciting one for me. Mild, moist and a little bit salty? Those are a few perfect attributes for a cake ingredient. And since Jerusalem artichokes and green peas had proven to make delicious desserts, certainly black olives deserved a chance.

Orange & Black Olive Chocolate Cake (6)I decided on a black-on-black batter: dark cocoa and black coffee to mingle with the tiny bits of olives, plus a tad of butter, flour and sugar.  A heap of orange zest would add a citrusy tang, and a good dose of vanilla would soften it all.  The result was just as I’d hoped: a spongy, moist and deep-dark dessert enjoyed by many.  Here is the recipe.

Orange and Black Olive Cake (makes a one-layer 8″ cake; serves 10)

  • 2 eggsOrange & Black Olive Chocolate Cake (3)
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
  • 1/4 cup unsalted butter at room temperature
  • 3/4 cup flour
  • 1/2 cup cocoa powder (not Dutch process)
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/2 cup black coffee at room temperature
  • 4.25 ounce can (or 1/2 cup packed) finely chopped black olives
  • finely grated zest of one orange

Preheat oven to 350 F.  Grease an 8″ cake pan and either line bottom of pan with parchment paper or dust with flour.  In a large bowl, beat the eggs, sugar, vanilla and butter until pale and even.  Sift the flour, cocoa, baking soda and baking powder over the egg mixture. Begin to stir, gradually adding the coffee.  Mix until completely smooth.  Fold in the olives and orange zest, stirring until evenly distributed. Spread the batter into prepared cake pan, and bake for about 30-35 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center tests clean.  Let cake cool completely in pan before inverting and decorating as you please.  Serve at room temperature, and store covered, eating within two days.

Orange & Black Olive Chocolate Cake (13) With its hidden flecks of orange and black olive, this rich chocolate cake is a crowd-pleasing treat which satisfies with an almost brownie-like crumb.  When I shared it with a group at work and asked them to guess the secret ingredient, I heard “liqueur,” “melted chocolate” and “vanilla beans”; no one guessed olives, and hardly anyone could believe they were there.  A cinch to whip up, this cake is a nod to those olives-on-fingertips days of youth, delivering simplicity and sweetness in one scrumptious form — all ages welcome.

Orange & Black Olive Chocolate Cake (11) Maybe next time… This is truly an all-around versatile chocolate cake.  Serve it with vanilla bean ice cream for a decadent dessert.  Double the recipe, bake in two pans, and add your favorite frosting for a traditional layer cake.  For a rich, chocolatey crunch, toss some cacao nibs into the batter.  For a crisp citrus glaze, juice the zested orange, whisk a few teaspoons into a cup of powdered sugar, drizzle over the cooled cake and let dry.

Orange & Black Olive Chocolate Cake (14)Orange & Black Olive Chocolate Cake (8)Orange & Black Olive Chocolate Cake (10)

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